calm body of water surrounded by mountains

A Self-Drive Itinerary Across Iceland’s South Coast

If upon landing in Iceland you feel like you’ve stepped into a movie set – something otherworldly like Star Wars or Interstellar – you have good reason. Both of those (and many more) were filmed across the country, leveraging the land’s distinctive geography and shocking lack of inhabitants to create a perfectly utopian scene. 

Blink a few times and you’ll realize you aren’t in Studio City, but rather in a very real land crafted by a bevy of natural disasters. The flat, winding freeway was once the sea floor and the towering, flat-topped mountains that pepper the horizon were once a sunken cluster of islands. Centuries of volcanic eruptions, earthquakes caused by testy tectonic plates, melting glaciers, and the impeccable scenery left as a result combine to make Iceland a truly one-of-a-kind destination. 

If you’re planning a trip, it can be tough to know where to begin when faced with seemingly endless options. I’ve just returned from a road trip across the Southern coast and impressed myself with the seamlessness of our piecemealed itinerary. 

Whether you copy this route exactly or modify it to match your own bucket list, you’re guaranteed to have a trip you won’t forget just by simply showing up. 

Day One: Arrive and Explore Reykjavik

My overarching piece of advice for traveling Iceland? Rent a car. After landing in the Keflavik Airport (KEF), it’s nearly an hour drive into Reykjavik, which is where many select as home base. We booked through Europcar, which was an easy pick up and drop off onsite. We checked in our first of four accommodations, the Exeter Hotel, and were pleasantly surprised by the modern design, comfortable guestroom, and close proximity to dining and nightlife. Plus, it’s a block away from the coast, and I’m a sucker for waterfront views. 

With our bags dropped and our adrenaline overriding any jetlag, we drove 20 minutes to Sky Lagoon–a stunning oasis located right on the coastline. Blue Lagoon is a typical choice for a spa-like experience riddled with photo opps, but we selected Sky Lagoon for its proximity to the city and its buzzy newness. Wading into warm, steamy water, grabbing a drink from the swim-up bar, and perching on the ledge overlooking the rocky coast was a delightfully relaxing and rejuvenating welcome. 

After a post-lagoon power nap, we hit the town for a welcome toast. I’ve never met a pub I didn’t like, and Reykjavik’s Drunk Rabbit and English Pub certainly didn’t disappoint. We indulged in local Icelandic beverages (Gull beer with a side of Baby Guinness shot(s)) before grabbing fish and chips to carry us home. 

Day Two: Golden Circle and Snorkeling

Day two began with excellent bagels from the hotel lobby and Americanos from the waterfront cafe, Reykjavik Röst, to fuel our day full of adventuring. We drove nearly an hour to Thingvellir National Park, which is a notable stop along the Golden Circle route. We booked a snorkeling excursion with Dive.Is that wafts well-suited divers straight through the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates – the only place in the world this experience exists. We took in the park’s scenic views before continuing onto two additional points of interest: the Geyser Geothermal Area and Gulfoss Waterfall. 

After sightseeing, we made our way to the small town of Hella for the most memorable accommodations I’ve had yet: a glass igloo set in the middle of a field covered in horses. We came prepared with charcuterie, cheeses, wine, and a deck of cards, keeping our eyes peeled skyward for a hopeful glimpse at the Aurora Borealis (we missed her this time, an excuse to return).

Day Three: Glaciers and Diamonds

If you’re wary of long drives, this is where I’d recommend a modification in the itinerary. We reluctantly checked out of our igloo and set out on a three-and-a-half-hour drive to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. While this was a bit of a trek, we both agreed it was well worth it. 

We booked a Zodiac boat tour which included insulated suits and an adventure-filled journey through the water. We were able to get up close and personal with icebergs that regularly chip off the glacier (if you’re lucky, you can see it happen) and watch seals basking in the sun and playing the currents. The lagoon itself is a spectacle, but the famous Diamond Beach is located a short walk away. Chunks of ice that escape the lagoon wash up on the black sand shores, emulating giant glistening diamonds when they catch the sun. 

We then drove another few hours to Vik, which is a more populous town compared to the others we had passed through since Reykjavik. We checked into the beautiful Hótel Vík, then wandered across the street for dinner at Strondin Pub

Day Four: Vikings and Volcanos

With hotel coffee in-hand, we kicked off our final day with a walk along Vík’s black sand beach. We originally planned to wander on our own for our final day, but decided to book an impromptu tour to Katla Ice Cave, and we’re so glad we did. We heaved ourselves into a sprinter van-turned-tank and went on an off-roading adventure filled with tidbits about Icelandic geography and history. 

We learned about the active volcano, Katla, and the massive glacier that sits on top, we dodged quicksand with crampon-covered shoes, then scaled the ice until a beautiful frozen cave emerged. After the hike, the off-roading continued as we zipped over hills and across beaches to the tune of a playlist named “Viking Aurora Hunt.” 

Finally, we arrived back in Reykjavik (after stops at Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls along the way) for a luxurious night at the Iceland Parliament Hotel, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton. We enjoyed an Icelandic dinner (which included whale) at the Canopy by Hilton’s signature restaurant, Gieri Smart, then toasted to the end of a successful trip over our mutual favorite cocktail, the Paper Plane. 

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